Evaluation

In tailoring, I love the way that the manipulation of fabric is key to achieve the smooth, sharp shape of the jacket. How it has developed over years to construct the perfect technique of creating the jacket, the way it is drenched in history and skill. No detailing is overlooked and the fit is key to the shape of the wearer. Though at the same time all these things make it so hard to learn and construct.

Over the course of this unit my technical skills, confidence and knowledge have developed massively, within tailoring and as a seamstress. I have learnt new practices in the process of making the two piece suit and clarified and developed from Defining Practice. I have also learnt new specialist skills that I hope to develop in the future.  

One of the main new specialist skill and technique I have learnt during this project was the pad stitching and canvassing within the jacket. I used this in the padding of the shoulder and chest within the inside of the jacket, the lapel and collar. Although it was hard to grasp to begin with, I feel I have begun to master the canvas and stitch though I will need to continue to practice in order to perfect, as this is the part of the suit I enjoyed the most.

Looking back at Defining practice, I feel that I have really developed further as a tailor both in skill and confidence. My work has become a lot more accurate and precise, as well as my understanding of methods and history of tailoring. This came clear to me when I no longer worried about what was next and just enjoyed the sewing, and through working aspects out for myself through research and so it become natural. It will be hard to go back to theatrical sewing as I prefer tailoring techniques and SA, as it makes so much more sense. I feel that I am now ready to work independently; however, I will still need some more practice on some parts of tailoring like the pockets, which I find practically hard.  

Working more independently has meant I have had to expand my theoretical knowledge and problem solving as well as contextual research which in all have developed my work and knowledge. My main resources have been The Modern Outfitter and Clothier and The Victorian Tailor, I found The Modern Outfitter and Clothier especially good for pattern, historical tips and problem solving. Whereas I found The Victorian Tailor much easier to read on history and context within Victorian/ period tailoring. They were both useful and were key in informing the development of the unit and suit. For example, my jacket pattern block was taken from The Modern Outfitter and Clothier, which I drafted from. This was much harder than patterns provide by the course and took twice as long to understand. Though, through muddling through, I feel I really expanded my knowledge in old pattern and in the future will be a lot more confident in using blocks in old books. I have learnt more using these books independently, than just being taught, making me more ready for the industry.  

One of main problems was in sourcing Scottish fabric in order to keep my suit historically accurate. I had problems in matching my tartan with a plain wool and then with my supply, so in the end had to cancel my order. I did however find Scottish tartan and a wool to blend with the tartan, though they were not Mackenzie as I wanted. Nevertheless I am happy with my fabric choice for the jacket, as it was the right type of homespun wool, soft, flexible and loose weave, which made it easier to manipulate and add in ease to the jacket. I did find the tartan challenging on the trousers in matching the pattern, though I am glad I chose the fabric. Although this has made my suit less historically accurate, I have constructed to a Victorian method, sizes and cut, as well as using stag horn buttons.

This project has been the first in planning and organizing independently, which I have preferred having control over, as I can be more organized within the project and reach my own aims and keep to schedules. All in all it has made me more independent ready for next year.  

Overall I happy with my suit and am very grateful to Graham for passing on his knowledge, this unit has been my favourite from all the years and I can’t wait to start tailoring again.

Suit on Model

I am really happy with the fit of the jacket and trousers and its overall look, it definitely looks Scottish. You can see the historical cut, fitting and sewing as well the overall look within the two piece suit. It will fit better when the jacket buttons are sewn on as at the moment it is just pined together at the CF line.

I am happy with the trouser length and the way they sit on the shoe at the back and front. As well as the matching of the tartan as you can see the pattern flow around the body.

I am pleased with the way the lapel and collar sits on the jacket and  was surprised to see how much of a difference the canvas and padding adds to the smooth shaping over the shoulder and chest area of the jacket, which has worked well. I also think the buttons add to the historical aspect of the costume. 

The side slits are still a little bulky, even though I cut down the inside SA and laid it flat. In future, I will include the side silts on the jacket pattern reducing the bulk in seams.   

I still think however that the pocket flap needs to be a little larger in length to be in proportion with the rest of the jacket and the sleeves need to be a little longer. This would have been noticed earlier in a fitting if I had, had one. 

It will be good to take out all the basting thread and see what it really looks like!

Button Holes and Buttons

I have already done machine button hole on my trousers, which I am really happy with, due to their even spacing, length and straightness. As a group we are not going to have time to do button holes on the jacket, I could do this independently, having done button holes before, though I want to learn the tailors way so will leave them until after hand in. I have done some research however into hand button hole like they would have used in Victorian times by hand shown below:

I have however sewn on my buttons on my trousers, cuffs, pockets and shoulder strap. For my cuffs and pockets I started by sewing down my braid. 

To start with I was unsure about the stag horn buttons, I thought a plainer navy blue button would look better. But as they are historically correct for the style of suit, and because of the McKenzie link, I went a head and added them all the same. I am now glad I did as I think they add to the over look and give it more of a historical Scottish feel. 

Tailor Stitches

To get a better understanding on the stitches used in tailoring and so I can improve them in the future I have done some research in to the stitches.From reading the three different felling stitches, I determined that I was sewing the third way. To get more of an angle I will need to change the position of the needle, though I will try the other two ways in the future to see if this makes any difference.

The cross stitch instructions is useful and I will try to achieve an more even stitch in the future.

Shaped Trouser Hems

From the trouser hem the seam should get bigger not following the seam on the trouser. I unpicked this to expand the seam giving me extra fabric to turn up.

In the center of the front of the trouser turn up 1.25cm and curve out. At the back turn down 1.25cm and curve back. Tack the line. 

Then at the front of the trouser make a pleat in the middle and let this run out to nothing . Tack. Then cross stitch the top of the hem folded up, then the pleat.Tape can be added to around the peat of the trouser hem to stop wear, though as I have only made these trousers to learn the skills and techniques, I have not added the tape. 

I had some issues with the hem, not the turning up though with the hand sewing. I used double thread to do the hand sewing of the cross stitch, I then ironed the hem. Unfortunately because my trouser fabric isn't very thick small pin pricks could be seen on the right side of the trouser. So I unpicked by sewing and sewed it in single thread. It came out a lot neater on the right side. Though where I ironed it before, a line can still be seen. I have learned from this not to iron to heavily  on the sewing line of the hem, just the bottom of the trouser.Other than this I am happy with my trousers.

Finishing the Collar

After pinning on the collar on the stand, fell stitch the bottom stand line to top fabric of the jacket from the collar step to collar step.

Then place the jacket on a stand and check. If all is ok, determine the length of the collar and cut. (I found that is normally were the step is on the made in the collar) Angle depending on research. Do this for both sides. 

Then place the top piece of cloth with the right side facing you on top of the canvas, matching the stand line. Tack through this line. Then baste the fall and tack at the bottom of the stand in to the top cloth not the lining/ facing. 

Then flip the jacket over to the Melton side of the collar. Trim away any excess top cloth to 0.5cm on the top of the fall. (I found though if your fabric frays a lot leave 0.75cm.) Then fold the top fabric into the middle of the canvas and Melton along the top fall line, laying the Melton on top of the cloth. Pin all the way along and then fell stitch. 

 
 









Once this is done all the way along iron the collar with stem, not pressing down with a ham, to achieve the shape of the collar when folded over on the stand/ fall and to shape the canvas. then check this on the stand.

At the bottom of the stand where its attached to the neckline. From the step in the collar to the end of the cloth facing fold the collar in on itself (the top cloth only) and pin. (you may need to undo the bottom tack lines). Then on the facing of the jacket fold the SA in on itself like the collar. These should meet each, butted up, pin and tack on both side. Then use stoating stitch attach together. (this stitch is just weaving the needle in and of the two folds in the middle, so not seen, sewing them together.) 

Then fold two end of the collar top cloth over on to the Melton. The two side edges are folded and the end is left raw. This is the cross stitched down. 

Once this is done on both sides, fold the lining of the jacket over the top of the collar and slip stitch down. Press and check on the stand. 

I am really happy with my collar, it so nice to see the jacket come together. I was slightly worried that the collar would be wider than the lapel though has ended up the following the line smoothly around the neck ,and looks just like the lapel and collar in chosen image and historical research. 

I expected the collar to be a lot harder that it was, though way surprised how easy it was. Maybe this is because though the projected by tailoring skills has developed, as well as my technique skills. 

However I think I can improve on my felling stitch as it needs to be more angled historically, though through practice and I think I can improve this.

I like the clean finish of the lapel and collar as it looks like it was machined and was surprised that the collar is completely hand sewn on. I am also happy that my collar finish as the correct point on the shoulder strap.
I love the way the canvas is so manipulable and if I learned nothing else, but just canvas and pad stitching I would be happy with the project. I like the way you can create gentle, graceful curves and fixed shape and being able to change the firmness of the collar, inside canvas and lapel by the stitching and attaching. 

Overall I am very pleased with my collar, though I could do it better a second time. It is a skill and technique that I will definitely use in the future, and is the best way to make a collar I have done.   

Collar Cutting and Pad Stitching

The first step making the collar after drafting it is to cut out all the fabric pieces needed.

1. Collar Canvas- to the shape of the collar with 1cm SA all the way around, cut on the bias and cut in tow halves.
2. Collar Melton- to the shape of the collar with 1cm SA all the way around, cut on the bias and cut in tow halves.
3. Top Cloth- cut on the straight of grain, with 1cm SA all the way around and 2cm SA on the collar step slop, cut in one piece

Note: the Melton should be the same colour as the cloth or as close as you can get as the collar in not lining and the Melton may be seen. 

Tack through the stand line on all pieces.

Once the pieces are cut, machine the Melton halves together with the 1cm SA as a normal seam. The collar canvas is sewn together though these are over lapped and sewn down the middle of the 1cm SA. Then lay the two pieces on top of each other with the right side of the Melton facing out, tack through the stand line. Mark with chalk the 1cm SA all the way around the canvas and Melton. 

On the canvas side start at the top of the stand line on the stand and pad stitch (about 1.25cm long and 0.25cm wide). The first row has no or very little push. The second row has some push as do the rest, the pad stitch is not staggered like the lapel. Continue all the way along the stand of the collar and stop at the 1cm SA.

Then turn the collar around and start at the stand line on the fall of the collar and pad stitch. The first row has no or very little push. The second row has some push as do the rest, the pad stitch is not staggered like the lapel. Though like the lapel in the corner draw on triangles and don't pad stitch through these. When all the is pad stitched except for the SA and triangles, pad stitch the triangles in the opposite direction. This will stop the corners lifting or curling outward.

Having finished pad stitching the collar, trim away the 1cm SA on the top and bottom. Then on the fall of the collar bottom trim a small amount of the canvas away leaving a lip of Melton. Then on the stand top cut a small amount of the Melton away leaving a small lip of canvas. This means that on the fall the Melton won't be seen when sewn on.

Take the collar the iron and press flat not with a lot of pressure. Then on the stand line use the iron as an anchor and stretch the collar around on the stand section of the collar, following the shape when on the jacket. Do this for both sides and then turn the collar around onto the fall and use the iron as an anchor and stretch the opposite way. Don't stretch a lot. By doing this it stops the collar from moving upwards and keeps it in the right shape, making it easier to apply.

Then with your hands press the the stand under along the stand line, then with no weight of the iron press the fold. Should should end up with a collar like the one above in the photo.

 

Then apply the collar to the jacket on the stand to check its fit, correctly. Overall I am happy with my collar so far, it lays correctly and when I have shortened the ends will be right historically.  It was much quicker with my pad stitching, and more evenly spaced, though with more practice I feel I could achieve more equal proportions of stitches. I also have to watch the amount that I push as this time small ridges did start to form, though these did iron out. This is by far the best way of insuring the correct shape of the collar and like the rest of tailoring is clearer in it manipulation of fabric to achieve the desired effect.    

 

Collar Research

I found this in 'The Victorian Tailor' which was useful to see how they create the collar. From what Graham has said, I don't think this is the way we are making out collar, though the main aspects seem the same. I also looked it 'The Modern Outfitter and Clothier' which seems to be the same. I will wait until tomorrow to learn the process. 
 

Jacket Line Up

As a year we all have to do a group presentation on the unit we deiced to do, for our tailoring presentation we decided to line our jackets up. Its interesting to see the different styles, fabric and cut of the jackets, that everyone choose. 

My jacket is the first navy blue one from the middle, you see in comparison to the other jackets, the shortness of the jacket length, the curve on the CF opening, the longer lapel, cuff, pocket, side slit and shoulder strap. You can also see the difference in cut/ the fit on the stand. (off course the stand is not to the correct size of my model, this will make the fit quite different.) Though is still is not as relaxed as the lounge jacket.