Having made the calico sleeve first, and found no fault, I have moved onto the cloth sleeves. I started by cutting them out in both cloth and lining (I made the lining 2.5cm larger on top and bottom of the sleeve for extra ease and SA), I then sewed down the side seams as before (the lining was sewn fractionally larger), so I had finished with two cloth sleeves and two lining sleeves. I then matched them up together the right cloth sleeve with the right lining sleeve and place the cloth inside the lining with the right side together. Then I pinned the SA of the lining to the SA of the cloth sleeve matching the left and right of the SA to the left and right. I used 3 pins on the curve on both the hinder arm and fore arm, this was then tacked. (the lining had shorter SA as it was sewn fractionally larger.) I did this for both sleeves, then having done this turn the sleeve out and out again to the right side of the cloth of the sleeve was facing out. I then stretched my hand out inside the sleeve and tacked around the sleeve about 10cm from the bottom, not including SA. In order to hold the lining and cloth in the right place. I did the same on the top of the sleeve, following the sleeve shape. This was also done for both sleeves, the tacking was relaxed.
I love the way in tailoring nothing is left to chance like in theatrical costume. The tailor makes sure that the lining will stay in the right potion and won't move, though still has the ease needed for the wearer to move. The sleeve is another example of this with its skill and cleverness. I suppose unlike some theatrical costume, the techniques have been mastered and developed over the centuries, and hasn't changed all that much in fashion, unlike theatrical costumes.
The next step on the lounge jacket would be to add hair canvas to the hem of the sleeve and turn up the cloth and fold the lining and slip stitch down. Though on this style of jacket (tweed kilt jacket) the design has a cuff, with braid and button. (Like on my chosen image and pattern block, which I used to reference and draft the shape.) For this I cut the cuff in the lining, cloth and canvas, and have sewn them together, down the sides first then around the top to create the shape. I then tacked on the braid. To attach to the jacket I matched up the hem line with right side of the sleeve, facing the right side of the lining of the cuff and sewed around. I then pressed and folded up the SA, then pulled the lining of the sleeve down and finished the same as a lounge jacket.
I then attached the sleeve cloth to the jacket, pushing down the sleeve lining into the sleeve. I pinned, checked that this was right, then tacked and then sewed round. ( Adding the shoulder straps onto the top of the shoulder seam). I am very happy with my sleeve the ease has come out really well and created a smooth line on the armhole. They also sit really well with the straight of grain falling out at the cuff. This is the easiest sleeve I have ever had to put in, normally I have to unpick it at least once, but both sleeves went in perfect first time. I suppose this is because of all the preparation before, which clearly paid of.
The sleeve was then finished by pulling up the lining and easing in tacking down, folding over 0.75cm, this gives the lining of the sleeve more ease. I managed to loose some of the ease of the lining on one of my sleeves, it still has some ease, just not as much as it was should of had. I future I will add a bit more allowing for the movement in the lining and fraying. This will then be slip stitched.
Overall I am very happy with my sleeves, as they both have the right balance and came out well.
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