To make sure that the sleeves are positioned, set in on the nett and it will go in without any problems in the future, I checked the measurements to the jacket and sleeve pattern. Checking the pitches and armhole measurements.
I found that the measurement was different to the sleeve pattern, though I expected this as altered the shape of the armhole to the original, making it larger at the front to stop any bulking gathering at the font. This meant that my measurements were now wrong and that I would have to change the pitches. At the moment the underarm measured 26cm where as the top was 24cm which is completely wrong. So I moved the pitches around, so the top is now 26cm with ease and the bottom is 23cm. I still had some problems with the curved shape of the underarm, so I moved the line on the pattern up to 7.5cm from 10.7cm, which made a much better curve.
I also decided to narrow the sleeve cuff from 17.7cm to 14cm as the this will make them less wide, bulky and will give an overall better look. It will also stop the added cuff from sticking out too much.
With these alterations I hope to have stopped any problems with the sleeve in the future. Though to make sure that it is still right I am going to make a calico sleeve to check the fit, shape and how it hanged on the jacket. I will blog my findings.
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