Collar Cutting and Pad Stitching

The first step making the collar after drafting it is to cut out all the fabric pieces needed.

1. Collar Canvas- to the shape of the collar with 1cm SA all the way around, cut on the bias and cut in tow halves.
2. Collar Melton- to the shape of the collar with 1cm SA all the way around, cut on the bias and cut in tow halves.
3. Top Cloth- cut on the straight of grain, with 1cm SA all the way around and 2cm SA on the collar step slop, cut in one piece

Note: the Melton should be the same colour as the cloth or as close as you can get as the collar in not lining and the Melton may be seen. 

Tack through the stand line on all pieces.

Once the pieces are cut, machine the Melton halves together with the 1cm SA as a normal seam. The collar canvas is sewn together though these are over lapped and sewn down the middle of the 1cm SA. Then lay the two pieces on top of each other with the right side of the Melton facing out, tack through the stand line. Mark with chalk the 1cm SA all the way around the canvas and Melton. 

On the canvas side start at the top of the stand line on the stand and pad stitch (about 1.25cm long and 0.25cm wide). The first row has no or very little push. The second row has some push as do the rest, the pad stitch is not staggered like the lapel. Continue all the way along the stand of the collar and stop at the 1cm SA.

Then turn the collar around and start at the stand line on the fall of the collar and pad stitch. The first row has no or very little push. The second row has some push as do the rest, the pad stitch is not staggered like the lapel. Though like the lapel in the corner draw on triangles and don't pad stitch through these. When all the is pad stitched except for the SA and triangles, pad stitch the triangles in the opposite direction. This will stop the corners lifting or curling outward.

Having finished pad stitching the collar, trim away the 1cm SA on the top and bottom. Then on the fall of the collar bottom trim a small amount of the canvas away leaving a lip of Melton. Then on the stand top cut a small amount of the Melton away leaving a small lip of canvas. This means that on the fall the Melton won't be seen when sewn on.

Take the collar the iron and press flat not with a lot of pressure. Then on the stand line use the iron as an anchor and stretch the collar around on the stand section of the collar, following the shape when on the jacket. Do this for both sides and then turn the collar around onto the fall and use the iron as an anchor and stretch the opposite way. Don't stretch a lot. By doing this it stops the collar from moving upwards and keeps it in the right shape, making it easier to apply.

Then with your hands press the the stand under along the stand line, then with no weight of the iron press the fold. Should should end up with a collar like the one above in the photo.

 

Then apply the collar to the jacket on the stand to check its fit, correctly. Overall I am happy with my collar so far, it lays correctly and when I have shortened the ends will be right historically.  It was much quicker with my pad stitching, and more evenly spaced, though with more practice I feel I could achieve more equal proportions of stitches. I also have to watch the amount that I push as this time small ridges did start to form, though these did iron out. This is by far the best way of insuring the correct shape of the collar and like the rest of tailoring is clearer in it manipulation of fabric to achieve the desired effect.