Evaluation

In tailoring, I love the way that the manipulation of fabric is key to achieve the smooth, sharp shape of the jacket. How it has developed over years to construct the perfect technique of creating the jacket, the way it is drenched in history and skill. No detailing is overlooked and the fit is key to the shape of the wearer. Though at the same time all these things make it so hard to learn and construct.

Over the course of this unit my technical skills, confidence and knowledge have developed massively, within tailoring and as a seamstress. I have learnt new practices in the process of making the two piece suit and clarified and developed from Defining Practice. I have also learnt new specialist skills that I hope to develop in the future.  

One of the main new specialist skill and technique I have learnt during this project was the pad stitching and canvassing within the jacket. I used this in the padding of the shoulder and chest within the inside of the jacket, the lapel and collar. Although it was hard to grasp to begin with, I feel I have begun to master the canvas and stitch though I will need to continue to practice in order to perfect, as this is the part of the suit I enjoyed the most.

Looking back at Defining practice, I feel that I have really developed further as a tailor both in skill and confidence. My work has become a lot more accurate and precise, as well as my understanding of methods and history of tailoring. This came clear to me when I no longer worried about what was next and just enjoyed the sewing, and through working aspects out for myself through research and so it become natural. It will be hard to go back to theatrical sewing as I prefer tailoring techniques and SA, as it makes so much more sense. I feel that I am now ready to work independently; however, I will still need some more practice on some parts of tailoring like the pockets, which I find practically hard.  

Working more independently has meant I have had to expand my theoretical knowledge and problem solving as well as contextual research which in all have developed my work and knowledge. My main resources have been The Modern Outfitter and Clothier and The Victorian Tailor, I found The Modern Outfitter and Clothier especially good for pattern, historical tips and problem solving. Whereas I found The Victorian Tailor much easier to read on history and context within Victorian/ period tailoring. They were both useful and were key in informing the development of the unit and suit. For example, my jacket pattern block was taken from The Modern Outfitter and Clothier, which I drafted from. This was much harder than patterns provide by the course and took twice as long to understand. Though, through muddling through, I feel I really expanded my knowledge in old pattern and in the future will be a lot more confident in using blocks in old books. I have learnt more using these books independently, than just being taught, making me more ready for the industry.  

One of main problems was in sourcing Scottish fabric in order to keep my suit historically accurate. I had problems in matching my tartan with a plain wool and then with my supply, so in the end had to cancel my order. I did however find Scottish tartan and a wool to blend with the tartan, though they were not Mackenzie as I wanted. Nevertheless I am happy with my fabric choice for the jacket, as it was the right type of homespun wool, soft, flexible and loose weave, which made it easier to manipulate and add in ease to the jacket. I did find the tartan challenging on the trousers in matching the pattern, though I am glad I chose the fabric. Although this has made my suit less historically accurate, I have constructed to a Victorian method, sizes and cut, as well as using stag horn buttons.

This project has been the first in planning and organizing independently, which I have preferred having control over, as I can be more organized within the project and reach my own aims and keep to schedules. All in all it has made me more independent ready for next year.  

Overall I happy with my suit and am very grateful to Graham for passing on his knowledge, this unit has been my favourite from all the years and I can’t wait to start tailoring again.