I drafted the collar today, in order to this took measurement from my jacket and transferred them on to pattern paper. Measure from:
- CB seam line to the lapel break line
- Break line to collar step (together they make the one half of the collar length)
- 3.5cm up (stand of collar length)
- 4cm up from that (Fall length)
- 2.5cm from the bottom line. (this is the curve up)
- The size of the collar width depending on the research and design. (4.5cm- 4cm)
- From the top of the fall line to the slop of the collar width (6) this line needs to be slopping down.
When I drafted this I traced it off onto pattern pattern paper, and tried it on the stand/ jacket. It looked odd and was hard to tell if this was right, being my first collar, so I cut it out straight away in calico, as this would then be easier to see and manipulate into the shape of the collar. Having done this I pinned the calico onto the bottom of the neckline. The photos below show my results. I was amazed that this was right and worked perfectly. The collar sits flat, the right without any bunching or gathering, the collar width is also right as it follows my historical research and smoothly curves round. I am very pleased with my collar and will start to make it soon.
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