Wednesday 2 May 2012

Attaching the Facing


Attaching the facing wasn't to different to attaching the facing on the waistcoat. To do this I machined down the CF line following the edge of the canvas between the two steps, collar and bottom facing line, at the lapel corner it curves. Using the wooden block on the iron press the seam open, mitering the corner of the lapel and then turn in. I then tack rolled the seam, this was different to normal as where the lapel folds over, you don't want the seam on the front, so it rolls inward. But then you don't want the seam to be seen down the CF of the jacket either, so to solve this its curves round rolling the seam around at the point where the lapel finishes and CF begins, so both seams can't be seen from the right side. 

After this I baste down the facing into the cloth making sure its flat and smooth, leaving the lining lose as above on the top left photo. I then peeled back the lining back to SA and tacked this down the jacket. This pulls the facing into place and keeps it there creating a smooth finish with no ease unlike the lining. This was then cross stitched down to the canvas, not going through to the right side, then the first piece of tacking was taken out. This was finished by taking around the armhole on the upright. This was done for both pieces. 

I enjoyed this part of the process as you begin to see the jacket take place and form the end result. I didn't face any problems or difficulties through any of these stages. However I did find that my lining on the facing can come out short around the armhole on one section shown above. I'm not sure how this happened as I added extra SA onto the lining to make sure this didn't cause any problems as I still have quite a lot of SA left, due to the extra I added on earlier.     

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