Finishing the Collar

After pinning on the collar on the stand, fell stitch the bottom stand line to top fabric of the jacket from the collar step to collar step.

Then place the jacket on a stand and check. If all is ok, determine the length of the collar and cut. (I found that is normally were the step is on the made in the collar) Angle depending on research. Do this for both sides. 

Then place the top piece of cloth with the right side facing you on top of the canvas, matching the stand line. Tack through this line. Then baste the fall and tack at the bottom of the stand in to the top cloth not the lining/ facing. 

Then flip the jacket over to the Melton side of the collar. Trim away any excess top cloth to 0.5cm on the top of the fall. (I found though if your fabric frays a lot leave 0.75cm.) Then fold the top fabric into the middle of the canvas and Melton along the top fall line, laying the Melton on top of the cloth. Pin all the way along and then fell stitch. 

 
 









Once this is done all the way along iron the collar with stem, not pressing down with a ham, to achieve the shape of the collar when folded over on the stand/ fall and to shape the canvas. then check this on the stand.

At the bottom of the stand where its attached to the neckline. From the step in the collar to the end of the cloth facing fold the collar in on itself (the top cloth only) and pin. (you may need to undo the bottom tack lines). Then on the facing of the jacket fold the SA in on itself like the collar. These should meet each, butted up, pin and tack on both side. Then use stoating stitch attach together. (this stitch is just weaving the needle in and of the two folds in the middle, so not seen, sewing them together.) 

Then fold two end of the collar top cloth over on to the Melton. The two side edges are folded and the end is left raw. This is the cross stitched down. 

Once this is done on both sides, fold the lining of the jacket over the top of the collar and slip stitch down. Press and check on the stand. 

I am really happy with my collar, it so nice to see the jacket come together. I was slightly worried that the collar would be wider than the lapel though has ended up the following the line smoothly around the neck ,and looks just like the lapel and collar in chosen image and historical research. 

I expected the collar to be a lot harder that it was, though way surprised how easy it was. Maybe this is because though the projected by tailoring skills has developed, as well as my technique skills. 

However I think I can improve on my felling stitch as it needs to be more angled historically, though through practice and I think I can improve this.

I like the clean finish of the lapel and collar as it looks like it was machined and was surprised that the collar is completely hand sewn on. I am also happy that my collar finish as the correct point on the shoulder strap.
I love the way the canvas is so manipulable and if I learned nothing else, but just canvas and pad stitching I would be happy with the project. I like the way you can create gentle, graceful curves and fixed shape and being able to change the firmness of the collar, inside canvas and lapel by the stitching and attaching. 

Overall I am very pleased with my collar, though I could do it better a second time. It is a skill and technique that I will definitely use in the future, and is the best way to make a collar I have done.