Saturday 19 May 2012

Shaped Trouser Hems

From the trouser hem the seam should get bigger not following the seam on the trouser. I unpicked this to expand the seam giving me extra fabric to turn up.

In the center of the front of the trouser turn up 1.25cm and curve out. At the back turn down 1.25cm and curve back. Tack the line. 



Then at the front of the trouser make a pleat in the middle and let this run out to nothing . Tack. Then cross stitch the top of the hem folded up, then the pleat.Tape can be added to around the peat of the trouser hem to stop wear, though as I have only made these trousers to learn the skills and techniques, I have not added the tape. 

I had some issues with the hem, not the turning up though with the hand sewing. I used double thread to do the hand sewing of the cross stitch, I then ironed the hem. Unfortunately because my trouser fabric isn't very thick small pin pricks could be seen on the right side of the trouser. So I unpicked by sewing and sewed it in single thread. It came out a lot neater on the right side. Though where I ironed it before, a line can still be seen. I have learned from this not to iron to heavily  on the sewing line of the hem, just the bottom of the trouser.Other than this I am happy with my trousers.

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