Comparing Blocks and Jacket Styles

Lounge Jacket

This is the most commonly worn during the Edwardian period and it still used today in various styles.

In this pattern there are three buttons one in the middle of the waistline with one either side. The pockets are jetted with the addition of flaps. This pattern is not close fitting and has a large amount of ease at the waist, which might explain it popularity due to its comfort, the shoulders are cut to allow for padding. 

The basic jacket block doesn't differ from the lounge jacket block, hugely. There are two main difference, one the shape of the shoulder on the front panel. On the lounge jacket the shoulder curves down shaping the shoulder seam, whereas, on the basic block the shoulder seam is straight. The second difference is the angle of the darts, though this will vary depending on the shape and measurements of the wearer.  

Below is a photo of an Edwardian man wearing a Lounge suit:

Single Breasted Hacking Jacket

The hacking jacket was worn for sports and hunting and is also worn now as leisure wear. In this pattern the jacket would have two buttons down the front, the pockets would be slanted to make is easier for the wearer to assess, with the addition of a flap. Unlike the lounge jacket this jacket is quite slim fitting, but the resemblance can still be seen between the two. There is normally a breast pocket, which can also have a flap. 

Again this pattern doesn't differ too much from the same of the basic block. The differences being the slanting pocket, the larger second dart and the side slits. But the overall shape is same.

Below shows an Edwardian hunting party:

Single Breasted Blazer

The blazer was worn by various members of sporting member or public school, which adapted the look of each blazer with different patterns and strips in many different colours.

The basic block differs to the blazer as the pocket is different, there is no second dart, other than this the jacket doesn't differ in shape from the basic or lounge jacket blocks. I like this blazer block with the added stripes , I can see it being very handy when cutting out top fabric.

Below is a reproduction of an Edwardian blazer:

Single Breasted Dinner Jacket

The dinner jacket doesn't differ to much from the basic block. The collar is the main difference with a step. The overall fit however is quite different, around the waist would be close fitting, the chest was cut full and the hip was 'snug'.

Below is a fashion plate of the dinner jacket from 1901: