Sunday 25 March 2012

Sleeve Pattern Changes Over Time

To a get a greater idea of the development of tailoring of through the last few centuries I am going to look at patterns of sleeves taken from historical garments. ( The images of pattern piece are taken from the Norah Waugh book The Cut Of Men's Clothing 1600-1900).

Pattern to the left is of a sleeve from a 1600 Doublet.
The middle is from 1680-90 and is taken from a coat.
On the right is a sleeve pattern from a Frock coat during the 1800's.   

From comparing these sleeve patterns you can clearly see the development of pattern drafting made by  tailors over the years and the changes to their shapes.

On the early sleeves you can see that the shaping of the head of the sleeve is not very shaped in comparison to the century later where more of a curve is developed. This is then accentuated more in the 1800's where a much larger curve is created. The same can be said for the underarm. The extra material needed to create this shape was used as a built in gusset, though over time the need of a gusset has become less and less, shown by the change in shape.

Another detailing that can be seen is the curve in the hinder and forearm. In the 1600's the sleeve was much more curved and shaped, constricting the movement of the wearer, though over the ages you can the arm become less curved restricting less. In modern sleeve patterns a curve is still created but not so dramatic.  

No comments:

Post a Comment