Canvas

I have added canvas into a garment before in Defining Practice, but for the jacket I have needed to further my knowledge and skill in canvasing. The canvas in the period jackets play an important role in the maintenance of the garment, style and overall look on the model. In the jacket I am making I have added three layers of different canvasing, hair canvas, shoulder canvas and breast felt. These three layers will give the jacket a smooth fit from the hollow of the male shoulder to the chest, creating overall smooth shape of the models chest area.

I have learnt a new skill of pad stitching the canvas together, this could of been done by machine but pad stitching is a skill I wanted to learn. The length and width of the stitch varies the overall finish of the garment. If I was making a Dress Jacket or Dinner Jacket the pad stitching would be small and close together, by doing this it would mean that the canvas would become stronger. Therefore, the finished garment would have a harder front over the chest giving it a good shape.

Whereas ,I am making an everyday style jacket the pad stitch is larger and further apart (about 2.5cm long and the same apart), still creating the shape but in a more relaxed, casual style.  

A different technique is used for attaching the canvas on to lapel, which I hope to learn next week.  I have done some research into this and it seems to be the same technique as the other canvasing though you roll as you stitch. The lapel has to be handled carefully to create a well shaped lapel. 

Below is a diagram that I found will researching canvases: