Monday 16 April 2012

Pocket sample

I have now cut out my jacket in top fabric and mark stitched, it was time to start my pockets. I have never done a pocket with a flap on before so I decided to a sample first so I could work out the best way to construct the pocket. For the sample I have done a jetted pocket with a flap, shown below:




I was told by my tutor Graham that the size of the flap shouldn't be any deeper than 4-5cm so I chose the larger size as it looked more in proportion to the jacket and style, although I can not see clearly on my chosen images the size of the pocket flap. (I am mainly going by the Tweed Kilt Jacket pattern block).  The size of the jets historical should also be about 0.75cm where as the modern jet is 0.5cm.

The majority of my sample went  well, there are a few things that I will take forward and change when doing the pockets on the jacket. The main being there is a small gap of about 0.5cm from the flap and the side of the fabric probably because  when I made the flap I rolled in the seam with a tack to push the seam inside. In doing so this decreased the size of flap creating the gap. To resolve this I will add the 0.5cm on the flap equaling doth sizes to create a larger flap, with no gap when sewn in.

I also decided  placing the braid on the pocket  looked a bit odd because of the brown next to the blue. So I decided to change the braid to a navy blue and thinner as this looks more professional and historical for this jacket style and is what they would have done. I also found from doing some research of, the modern version of this jacket, the braid has been replaced and now a pleat is made in the fabric.

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