Trouser Pockets and Fly Sample

Today we did some really quick workshops on pockets and the concealed fly for the trousers. I decided to do a sample of both having not done either before and due to the fact that our session wasn't very long. It has allowed me to make the mistakes on the sample, rush through them so I can learn the techniques and then sew them at a steadier pace, more accurately and carefully on my actual trousers. 

Below are photos of the sample:

The first is the fly closed. In the second is the fly open, the chalk line shows where the buttonholes would go. Then the third, the fly is open, the left side is where the buttons would sit.The fourth shows the pocket from the front finished with the back of the trouser shown on the side seam. The fifth shows the reverse of the trouser.

I rushed through the pockets sample are some clear mistakes can be seen:

The the mouth of the pockets is not completely straight or in keeping with the curve, this was because when I tacked the seam rolling in it wasn't done evenly, making the distorted shape. This is easily remedied with accuracy on my actual pockets.

On the back of the pocket, the zigzagging of the facing on the pocketing wasn't at all good, the tension was wrong meaning it pulled the pocketing into the fabric, not only decreasing the size and shape it also looks unprofessional. With more time I can sort the tension on the machine bobbin, creating a neater clean finish, without distorting and decreasing the pocketing.

I am much happier with my fly sample and there isn't much that I would do different. 

I also think that the back panel when sewn to the front finishing the side of pocket, could be sewn a bit closer to create cleaner, sharper look. I will have have to watch that I don't sew the seam in with the pocket mouth closing its entrance. Though with accuracy, more time and practice I am sure I can achieve this on my trousers.

I am however very pleased with the fly, I think it came out very well, accurate, clean and well shaped. One concern I had was with the final step machine from the front creating the sewn line seen. Before you reach the curve you pull the left plaque through to sew through when going around the curve, of course you can't see what your doing at this point to the pulled through plaque. Although it did sew through this plaque and the overall shape works well from the front, it looks accurate from the back, as it hasn't followed the same shape. Shown below: 

Perhaps with more practice it will resolve this problem or through slightly increasing the size of the left plaque or even pulling the plaque up on the uprights and pinning in place. When sewing the fly on the trousers I will try these resolutions and see what works best. I will then blog my findings. 

I will do my trouser pocket and fly on Sunday. I will face a greater challenge as I have tartan fabric and will need to be matched. This will take more accuracy and precision and I will take my time to make sure I achieve the best result.