Canvasing the Lapel

The photos above show the stitching and shaping of the lapel when finished.

Starting by tacking on black cotton tape along the break line was important as the break line is set on the bias of the fabric and without would distort the fabric. By doing this I has meant that I have forgo-ed any future issues. Also by tacking on the cotton tape along the break line I could pull the tape creating dips in the fabric, on these parts I have back stitched. (This is only done on the middle part of the breast felt.) I found this stage quite hard to get the right amount and found myself doing it several times on the first half. Though having made the mistakes of doing to much then to little, it was much quicker and easier the second time round. It was important to get this stage right as too much would not iron out and too little wouldn't have the desired effect. By creating these dips it will keep the garment close to the body, as it would otherwise bow on the lapel. This on it own was extremely useful to learn and is a technique than I will keep in mind for the future and use.

I  have also learnt a different type a pad stitching when sewing the canvas to the lapel. Basically it is the same stitch though smaller (about 1cm long) in matching thread to the top fabric. However, when sewing the stitch a very small amount of push is added to the fabric towards the break line using your thumb. You then feed the needle through with your finger to the top fabric and prick, catching a pin prick of fabric then back through, repeating the process to the CF chalk line. Though at the top corner changing the stitch at on opposite diagonal. (As show on the top photo.) By using this technique it manipulates the fabric of the lapel automatically folding the fabric back on itself , even when ironed the shape is still held and goes back how it was, stopping the lapel from sitting wrongly or folding back. The top corner is at a different angle stopping the corner from folding out. I enjoyed this part of the process and has a real positive effect on the garment, it was also a really useful manipulation technique to learn and is a key tailoring skill.

I didn't face any problems at this point though if I did push the canvas too much, ridges could have been formed and when ironed would have created ridges, the only real remedy to this would be to unpick and start again.

Canvasing the lapel is a new technical skill that I have learnt. Overall it wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be though is very clever, I am glad to have learnt it.