Inside Pocket

After canvasing the lapel, I trimmed the SA away on the CF on the canvas and left an SA of 0.75cm on the wool and stayflex around the CF line. I then created the step in the lapel which situates the position of the collar in relation to the lapel. For this I used my image below to determine the size. I used the man on the right of the picture as this is the jacket I am making. a
As you can see the lapel is quite small in comparison to the normal lounge jacket and that of later jackets. Lapel is about half size in comparison to the collarl, so I created the step at this point. I then created a step at the bottom of the jacket where the facing join would be.

This was  a good point to check that both sides of the lapel were matching, I had to change one side about 2mm moving the lapel out making it larger. They should now be identical.

Once I did this I made my facing making the overall shape 0.5cm bigger allowing extra fabric for movement. The front panel is both cloth and lining, the cloth starts about 2/3 along the shoulder and curves around the front, then after the chest the line straightens out. On the lining I have sewn in the dart. This is shown in the top photo. After this I created the inside pocket (jet pocket), this was done on the left hand side of the jacket facing as my model is right handed. The pocket is under the armhole has a mouth size of about 13cm and is about 15cm deep.

I thought that this pocket would be harder to sew as I deiced to make it completely from the lining material, which is commonly done for the inside pocket. However I was surprised when I found it easier to sew, mainly due to the fact that it is much thinner and there is no bulk. It was also much easier to form the jets. Though  sewing some parts it was hard to sew completely straight as the lining is slippery and moved when on the machine. I found by pinning more helped to stop this, though tacking the lining would also have worked. 


I am slightly concerned that the stayflex at the back of the pocket can be seen on the lining on the front. In future for the inside pocket I will use no stayflex or a much thinner strip, lessening the amount seen.

I am becoming more confident when sewing pockets and am starting to enjoy the process I put this down to practice, and hope through repeating the processes in the future I want have to think about and read before sewing. 


The finished pocket is shown on the top photo, I have now tacked the pocket down to stop it from moving, so I am ready for the next step.