Friday 27 April 2012

Fitting

The tailor fitting is quite different to theater fittings, the tailor doesn't have much SA for movement is the garment doesn't fit.  Due to the skill, accuracy and judgement of the tailor  the garment should fit through accurate measuring and making. For tailor's the fitting allow the customer or actor to change any design area to their personal taste or to the designers.   

Although I am unable to have a fitting with my model, I looked in on a fitting to learn what needs to be looked at and the changes that would be needed to be made. 
 
Starting with the trousers, for the style we are making, they should feel relaxed with support(braces are worn with these trousers), they should be high waisted, with no creases at the front and have narrow legs compare to later trousers. (The crease in the front of the trousers can into fashion in the late 1920's). 
You should look for the break at the bottom of the leg. (This is were the material naturally creases). 
Then check the length, they should hit the bottom back of the shoe. You can then shape the hem,  from the back to the front. The front is normally shorter as the shoe is higher.

On the Jacket normally having the sleeves in for a fitting, you start by pinning where the buttons would go together. 

Go to the back and make sure the CB line is straight and that the top of the jacket is smooth across the back to the arm. Then check that it isn't distorted, if so find where and note how it can be changed. For example, if there is any bulk areas around the armhole, the armhole front does not scoop out enough at the front. This can be pinned to a new line. Though try not to make the armhole larger as it will restrict the movement of models arms. If the model is unsure about the armhole you can snip into the SA to show the finished armhole to reassure the wearer.

Then look at the hems checking it length, the hem can be tacked  before the fitting. Change if need be.

Of course there are different things that need looking at for different styles and garments.

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